Interview with Spanish Couture House Yolancris

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Yolancris

Spanish Haute Couture Brand

Fashion brand Yolancris originated in Barcelona in 2005 and has since grown significantly. In 2008, this fashion house debuted in the Gaudí runway shows in Barcelona and eleven years later they brought their Spring-Summer 2019 ‘Opera Prima’ collection to Paris. Since then, Yolancris has created a big name for itself, and has been showcased by many influential celebrities and artists such as Beyoncé and Lady Gaga.

The Yolancris show during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week took place in a beautiful and ornate 18th century building; the Hôtel Le Marois- France Ameriques. We interviewed Yolanda Perez, designer and creative director for Yolancris, to find out more about the inspiration for this jaw-dropping collection and successful brand!

How was your Haute Couture Fashion Week experience?

Overall it was a very positive experience but certainly a test because of the pressure of competing on a platform with huge names like Jean Paul Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf or Zuhair Murad. But the experience has been very good and we are very happy.

This was Yolancris’ first show in Paris. What did this mean to you?

As a designer, doing a fashion show in Paris is always a dream come true. I admire classic creators and artists such as Balenciaga, Christian Dior, and Valentino. To be closer to them in any way is always an honour and an opportunity to learn.

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What was it like growing up with a mother in the fashion and bridal business? How has it influenced the creation of your brand?

Our mother was head of production for bridal companies for many years and eventually opened her first store in 1985. From the young age of 7, my sister Cristina and I, would spend our time after school collecting needles at my mother’s store. We owe everything to her. She now works for the company and at 68 years of age, never missed a day!

What is it like working in the fashion business together as sisters?

We get along very well. I am the creative director and designer and my sister is in charge of the economic and commercial part of the business so our jobs do not interfere. We have a lot of faith and trust in each other’s work.

As two successful business women in the modern age, what is your advice for aspiring women designers?

I would advise them to learn a job, a craft. Paying for expensive bachelor and graduate degrees is one way to gain experience but it is not essential to dedicate yourself to fashion. You have to learn by doing.

"Walker, there is no path, the path is made by walking”

“Caminante, no hay camino, se hace camino al andar”

- Antonio Machado.

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What does the word ‘craftsmanship’ mean to you in regard to your collection?

It is present in everything we do. We do not design digitally or sketch. We assemble each and every one of the pieces on a mannequin. We are guided by intuition and trial and error. Craftsmanship and proximity are some of the most important values of the brand which we believe translate into our designs. Many of them could not be mass produced. All of our production is made in-house in our workshop in Barcelona since all of the materials and fabrics are bought locally.

What separates this collection from your previous work?

This SS19 Couture collection differs from the others in that I've let explore freely and create without constraints more so than in my other collections.

Barcelona was an inspiration for this collection. In what ways does the influence of a location play an important role when designing a collection?

Everything that surrounds you inspires you. The place where you live certainly does and Barcelona is such a special city that it naturally happened that way. Art is very present in my collections: Art Nouveau, pre-Raphaelites, Surrealism, the light of Sorolla and so on.

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The show took place in the Hôtel Le Marois- France Ameriques. How did you choose the location?

I saw it in a fashion show of a German brand and it was love at first sight.

The last Spanish designer to attend Haute Couture Fashion Week was in 2009. What is it like to be important Spanish designers at this time?

It's a big step. With everything being so ephemeral nowadays, you need to relativize. There’s work to do the next day.

How do you want your customer to feel when wearing your dresses?

I want her to feel powerful, elegant, and sophisticated. Most importantly, I want her to feel empowered. Femininity is a very subjective concept, but femininity as I understand it, is one of the pillars of my designs.

What are your future hopes and goals for Yolancris?

I started working when I was 16, so I would like to slow down a bit at some point in order to be able to combine work and family. For the time being, we want to keep doing as many new things as possible.

Your dresses have been worn by many influential people. How important is it while growing a brand to have celebrity clients?

Dressing celebrities gives you a lot of notoriety and it is always an honour that the best and most famous singers on the planet wear your clothes. However, we do not prioritise celebrities over any other client. It is as important to us to dress Beyoncé or Lady Gaga as it is to dress any anonymous client. The same effort and love is put into their designs.

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At what point as designers did you feel you had become a successful brand?

I don’t think you're ever aware of exactly when you're at the top. You feel it, but in a way that makes it hard to grasp. We intend to continue growing and working on Yolancris.

Thank you for telling us about your journey and continuing to inspire young designers!

Check out the website here: Yolancris.

Written by: Abby Droeger & Jessica Haltrecht

Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week Recap

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The Micro Macro team was lucky enough to visit many incredible shows this season at Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris! We saw elegant, breathtaking, and intricate gowns on the runway. Here’s a recap of three of the most talked about shows this season:

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Celia Kritharioti

Celia Kritharioti’s catwalk resembled a carousel! Models walked to circus music, acrobats swung from the ceiling in ostrich plumes, a man danced in an oversized tutu, and a huge string of pink polka-dotted balloons made its way across the runway. The balloons held up the veil to a voluminous pink and white ballgown. Celia Kritharioti, owner of Greece’s oldest fashion house, created a circus dream this season at Haute Couture Fashion Week.

This show was striking; colours ranged from bright yellows to deep blues. Such a mix of intricate, and elegant dresses created a diverse display on the catwalk. The handmade fringe pieces and the use of beads and stones were jaw-dropping and represented sophisticated showgirl looks. Kritharioti used materials such as silk taffeta, silk tulle, metallic organza, and delicate lace in the collection to create bold pieces. She maintained incredible detail and precision up close. Kritharioti was a costume maker for Greek National Opera ballets, and her theatrical influence is very visible in her SS19 Haute Couture Fashion Week collection.

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Yanina Couture

Yulia Yanina created a stunning collection for Yanina Couture this season. This Russian fashion house designer created gowns that would fit in seamlessly on the Hollywood red carpet. With petal and feather inspired pieces and strong black and white contrast dresses, Yanina’s collection was very feminine and dramatic. The black and white dresses reminded us of Audrey Hepburn; very Parisian and chic!

The collection showed a lot of skin yet remained classy; with slits, short hems, low necklines, and transparent fabrics. The metallic dresses fit the Hollywood theme as if they were enticing the Paparazzi’s cameras. With sharp silhouettes that impressed, the dresses’ colours came together to form a coherent and powerful collection.

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Yumi Katsura

As a Japanese designer incorporating Japanese influence into Paris Haute Couture dresses, Yumi Katsura’s collection was very unconventional and innovative. It was one of the most impressive collections we viewed!

The traditional Kbi kimono belt in the dresses were very visible and it was wrapped around each dress in skilful, complex ways. Not only did the belt add to the Japanese authenticity, but the floral patterns and cherry blossoms remained consistent with the tradition.

Katsura specialises in a hand-painted dyeing technique which makes each textile more delicate and charming. The head nets add a greater couture aspect to the collection and bring out the colour of the dresses. The most striking aspect is the layering of different patterns and textures. Katsura combines stripes and florals, and layers them with ribbon and lace. Katsura meshes strong colours with subtle and fragile textiles perfectly. The neck pieces were a great addition to the collection as well, evoking drama and admiration.

Overall, we had an amazing experience at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week and we can’t wait to see what these designers have in store for us next season!

Check out our favourite backstage shots- click the slider below